The echoing grunt of a red deer marked our arrival at Kilmory beach on the Scottish island of Rum. Researchers have been documenting the rut here since 1972, and their findings have attracted visitors from far and wide – including presenter Simon King and the BBC Autumnwatch team. Being careful to remain downwind, we lay on our bellies, relying on our waterproofs to protect us from the damp chill of the grass. A group of hinds wandered British Island Adventure onto the beach, dipping their heads to eat seaweed; jerking them up at the slightest sound. In the field behind the shore two males sized each other up, neither willing to waste energy on a full-scale territorial dispute. Pivoting my elbows, I followed a hind through the viewfinder of my DSLR. With the shot ‘in the bag’, we clambered to our feet and rejoined the path to Kinloch Castle.
When my partner, Dan, and I began our mission to explore and photograph all 7,747 of Britain’s offshore islands in 2009, we had no idea of the beauty, diversity, and drama that lay ahead of us. In the months that followed we encountered adders, otters, sea eagles, and jellyfish. We climbed mountains, forded streams, and watched the Atlantic Ocean crash against golden beaches. At night it looked as though the stars were hurtling towards us, while the moon offered us a dozy wink. We feasted on wild garlic and tasted seaweed dried in the sun.
Rum was our 128th island, and it offered everything we dreamt of. For eight nights we slept in a castle, surrounded by eccentric inventions and stuffed animals. While fellow guests sheltered indoors, we donned our Páramo gear and set out to walk the Rum Cuillin. On route to Hallival we discovered the abandoned burrows of Manx shearwaters, and watched a golden eagle riding the thermals. When the rain came, we barely noticed. Our Páramo gear kept us warm and dry but, crucially, it allowed us to carry on exploring – whatever the weather. With over 7,000 islands to go, I’m sure that my waterproofs will keep performing long after my legs have given way.
Tracy Hallett www.britishislands.blogspot.com
